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in Amerika Samoa

Encounters in Amerika Samoa - the story so far

2/12/2020

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in 2019:

Dr Ritabelle Fernandes, a beautiful visionary soul and one of my oldest friends:
saw The Good Manners of Colonized Subjects, my solo play about  indgeneity & origins
participated in one of my creativity workshops in Hawaii  and 
invited me to present my creativity writing/movement workshop as a
means of communal self-expression/healing  in a project she had helped manifest:

PROJECT: TAUSI FEAGAIGA (COVENANT KEEPER)
a week-long training for family caregivers

a partnership with Pacific Youth and Community Development, the Catholic Diocese Samoa Pago Pago-Hope House and the University of Hawaii.
Funded by: US Dept. of Health & Human Services Administration for Native Americans.

So - in January 2019, I came to Pago Pago with a team from the University of Hawaii and faciliated a creativity workshop during a week-long training for family caregivers.

Inspired by stories & songs of different cultures, participants created original poetry & prose. These workshops are part of a new cross-cultural project I've founded called Faraway is Close, which seeks to inspire "the story that is true to you, the story only you can tell.""


It was such a heartening inspiring encounter.
Read the booklet of participant writings and testimonials here (click and scroll down)

During that week, I also presented excerpts from my play at
American Samoa Community College
Read The Samoa News article for more info
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in January 2020, I was invited back with the medical team for a second creativity workshop for family caregivers
It was another heart opening, welcoming encounter with a wonderful new group of family caregivers....sharing poems, skits and dances  about the who they are and the challenge and courage it takes to care for others.  And our team was so welcomed and cared for!

One of  my favorite moments was at the final banquet:

All of us, Ritabelle, Brett, Shelley, Nancy and I
(3 doctors, one nurse and a dancer!, Olé) are called up to dance and
while we're dancing siva samoa (or trying to) in our very own ways,
the caregiver participants come dancing to us with gifts!

someone ties a lavalava around your waist
someone else places an ula around your neck,
or a gift around your wrist.

And we each received a beautiful personalized plaque.

like this - the generosity of Samoa
from le fatu - the heart


It was such a profound joyful exchange.

BIG BIG BIG THANKS TO
the family caregiver participants +

Pacific Youth and Community Development,
the Catholic Diocese Samoa Pago Pago-Hope House
and the University of Hawaii.



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And then, this year - after the week long training ended -
I stayed another week on my own and
that's the rest of the story you see here
on this blog.


Start with timu on Jan 16...and follow the rain....

The enthusiasm and energy and organizing talents of
Reggie Meredith
helped make this second week possible.

SPECIAL THANKS to her and

Mona and Nick King who most graciously and generously

hosted me in their home


And thanks to all who shared their stories
and received
mine including:

Su'a, Maki and Mike
Kuki Tuiasosopo, Fine Arts Chair, American Samoa
Community
College

Tisa and CandyMann of Tisa's Barefoot Bar

Mary Bordonaro and
her 7th grade creative writing class,
and Ricardo Sneed of
Pacfic Horizons School



and THANKS especially all the students who wrote, moved, danced, shared and connected...
 
faraway is close
thank you fafetai tele lava

to be continued...


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stay connected to
Faraway is Close/Shebana Coelho
and news of upcoming projects.


Read about THE GOOD MANNERS
OF COLONIZED SUBJECTS,

a solo play about
indgenousness and
colonization,
art and fear.




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Soundcloud

2/11/2020

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some poems & interviews from
Samoa on
Soundcloud

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Sami

1/27/2020

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la is sun
sami is ocean
langi is sky
Manuia is morning
timu is rain

one morning, the rain stopped, the sky cleared and the sun came out over the ocean.



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Reggie Meredith

1/23/2020

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What to say about Reggie Meredith

....Siapo artist (ancestral Samoan bark cloth art), performer, dancer, singer, fine arts teacher, visual artist...

her bio is too short to encompass the breadth of who she is, but it's a start:

Reggie Meredith is a Professor of Arts, at American Samoa Community College and also a fourth generation Siapo maker.
She has traveled the globe promoting the art of Siapo and has been a guiding force to keep the art alive.
She lives in Tutuila, Amerika Samoa.
More about Siapo here
 
For inquiries about her work, please email her at ra.meredith5@gmail.com


​Conn​ecting with her is one of the truest gifts of my time in Amerika Samoa.


SIAPOS by Reggie Meredith
It's fitting I spend my last day in Amerika Samoa with her, in her studio, listening, sharing,
collaborating on helping her develop a performance she is creating on embodying siapo...

What to say about deep rivers...

What to say about the  deep rivers of art and performance, story and song that run in her..

best to show you her pounding the bark of the u'a, the paper mulberry tree


best to share a short audio of her performance text


(I tell her that I am dreaming of her performing this as a  longer solo play - along with
The Good Manners of Colonized Subjects
as part of a women's solo festival I want to curate in the future:
the voices of indigenous women
of art, fear, colonization liberation
celebration,
strength
The dream is to do it next year,,,
I see it, she says, and I too see it)


best to share a poem about her....

... and the Sunday I also spent with her and her husband Su'a, a master tattoo artist and their friends.
we shared toana'i the Sunday afternoon lunch.

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That day, Reggie performed excerpts of another short performance she had done inspired by the origins of tattoo,
the first sight of the Samoans,
That day, I began to hear the story of so many origins.
All this inspired the poem....

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tattoo instruments of Su'a
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from Siapo, Bark Cloth Art of Samoa, an oral history by Mary J Pritchard, Reggie's aunt and teacher. Reggie learned siapo from Mary and her sister Marilyn.

and finally, best to share an interview with Reggie...

 
about connections, creativity and what matters to her now, here....
(in the interview, we reference how we met last year, when I shared excerpts from The Good Manners at American Samoa Community College
Reggie wrote a moving response to seeing it)


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this is a beautiful record of my last day, this time, this trip, in Amerika Samoa.
in my voice, I hear the blessings of faraway being close,
of following what calls,
of connections of heart and art, in time and out of time, and
how much it matters to cultivate and celebrate the story only you can tell,
how at peace I am when I spend time with kindred spirits who feel the fullness of their story
and live it, sing it, dance it....

this, to me, is revolution,
one voice
one dance at a time
together we create a network of resonance and healing
like that
así
aisa

faafetai tele lava, thank you very much to Amerika samoa.

I am grateful.
I am grateful.


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Fatu Siapo by Reggie Meredith
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after mera nam (my name)

1/22/2020

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Reggie's art class and Kuki's speech class and special guest Tisa....
everyime I perform, mera nam, my name, it feels different.
I heard my voice echo today  in a different way - -
later
One by one, everyone came up and spoke the story of their names...
short prose and deep journeys inwards...



A COLLECTIVE NAMING SONG


from my great great grandmother
who loved the smell of lily

it didn't suit me
so I changed it

trying to live up to
water of life
can be miserable

I might as well live with it and enjoy

never stop
never scared of anything

as in archangel

I am not the same

runs deep in my family
like the roots of the coconut tree
binding

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Pacific Horizons

1/21/2020

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A bit surreal to hear voices saying “colonization” just as the car drops me off on the lawn outside classroom A-1 of
Pacific Horizons School.


It’s afternoon, The rain has stopped for a spell.

In the green humid air, voices fade in and out. As I enter the classroom, I see Mary Bordonaro,
teacher of the 7th grade creative writing class and her students discussing my work,
with images and poems from my website projected onto a screen.

…everyone should feel so welcomed!!! .


A lovely afternoon of laughter, sharing and writing, drawing on Mahmoud Darwish’s “I come from there” poem and
my “mera nam” choreopoem from the Good Manners which I performed for them.
 
Many of the students shared hand written pages​ as I left ​- folded and placed into my palm...I treasure them.

I​ was also r​eally blown away by the beautiful reception and the depth ​and nuance ​of the writing​,,,selections below.

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           In response to the opening of The Good Manners….they wrote

 
The Hand movements moved through the wind
telling me a story, a vision
through the language of Dance
 
I tasted the whiskey that your Uncle drank. I saw the Land of India. Becoming free.
I smelled the cold dry musky wood pine air.
And in the church I smelled the smoky incense of the high priest.
 
I was amazed, mesmerized…
I smelled a scent of….unexplainable feelings.
Never have I ever…

As I dip my feet in water, I smell the scent of water
the feeling of cool water
the feeling of being calm
refreshed


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I come from there
the there that is dry
the there that is long and flat
the there that has roaring red mountains
And that there?
is there place I would like to be
the place of history at its finest or at its worst
the place littered with walk ways and heat
the place I was not born but the place I would rather be


----------------
 
I come from a place
            with wonderful trees
            with a small little park
and birds that will sing
it’s a place full of love
where your heart can’t be sealed
I come from a place known as
‘Fairfield’
It’s filled with adults and filled with kids
I love it because “home is where the heart is.”

 
----------------
 
I come from there.
I was born
unlike any other child. But my birth
mother gave birth to me there. A place of
disbelief, false, a place where I was left to
die. A place where I found a new home
in the arms of my newfound mother, she said
‘you come from somewhere special.’
 
----------------
 

I come from there
a beautiful country called China
there are 56 nationalities there
and I’m one of them
over there it’s noisy in the morning
over there, it’s noisy at night
I mean
I don’t like quiet places
I love my country
for ever

 
----------------
 
I come from there and I get flashbacks
flashbacks to my childhood
it was dark and gloomy
yet it was the happiest time of my life
 

----------------
 
I come from there
where the horses run and the dogs bark,
where the leaves fall and the ice melts.
I come from there where the sun shines and the flowers bloom.
 
----------------
 
I come from there
tall buildings and nice patterns
wooden and stone houses
clean glass and a farm
plants and animals
the taste of sweetness
and a relaxing feeling
I come from there
a place with my family

 ----------------

I come from there,
a place I call home, where peace is what I see, where is love is what I feel, I come from Fiji
 
I come from there, a small country over the ocean where beauty is in our name, where battle cry is in our blood and humans we once used to eat. I come from there an island called Fiji.
----------------
 
I come from China, a place where flowers grow, and happiness everywhere
with people spreading joy


----------------

I come from there
An island. That is warm. Humid and bright. With hundreds of birds that fly across the salty bay.
Where the beaches have many different colored sand.
Where the animals roam freely around the green, rainy forest.
I come from there. Where you can even smell the rain.
I come from there. Where at night the wind is clean fresh and cold. Looking up with thousands and more stars you can count.
And where the bats fly around the night sky.
And yes, I come from there.

 
Thank you, Shebana, for inspiring me to write, listen and learn
American Samoa, January 21, 2020

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traces of colonization

1/21/2020

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Today in ASCC,
we explored land and feeling, 
textures of living on island,
traces of colonization

The students shared skits in sound, song, story, dance, feeling.


Thanks to the students for such open hearted sharing and Kuki for inviting me to facilitate the creativity writing sessions for the classes...

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on the island we smell
coconut oil
freshly baked palo sami from the umu
the breadfruit roasted
and pungent smells of the starkist company…

            we see the high tide waves
from the ocean
where the fautasi races start every year in the month April

 

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thinking of colonization in samoa
            we smell the smoke from the naval ships coming into the bay
we taste the tears of our ancestors
flowing in the rivers
those fighting to protect and keep our land
oil spilled and
materials burned
gunpowder
blood
dirt
money
 
queen liliuokalani
captured by the American government
the guards walking by…
taste bitterness…
smell the salty ocean…


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Every morning  I wake to the blue sky
i
t gives me courage to move on
and then I hear my mother’s voice
get your ass ready for school
and then
eating grandma’s pancakes
which she makes every morning
I get ready, thinking
oh my god I’m going to be late for class
and then the bus passes by
because I was smoking.



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The journey of Tisa

1/20/2020

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Everyone who comes to Pago Pago sooner or later (more likely sooner) hears about
Tisa and Tisa’s Barefoot Bar.

She's a formidable talent and presence.

Everyone hears about the umu they have at Tisa's on Wednesdays.
where meats and vegetables and fruits are slow cooked in hot stones covered with banana leaves, in the traditional way,

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CandyMann, her partner, is originally from New Zealand. He came in his 20s to Samoa, to Sava'ii, to work on roads and drainage.
For an umu that is opened at around 7pm, he starts at around 6 am, he says making the fire to make the stones hot...and then later, putting all the meats and veggies and fruits.
everything cooks sloooowly...

Barefoot, Tisa said to someone at dinner who asked about the name of the bar, because of that feeling of going barefoot as a child.
 
I believe she’s in her seventh decade
 
She grew up in the village where the bar is.

You don’t read that much about the ancient history of Samoa, Tisa says, because it’s still only spoken.
At funerals she says when the talking chiefs (who are the ones who talk for the paramount chiefs) speak about their relationship to the deceased, then you really hear the whole history again, all the relationships from time immemorial.
 
One morning we share a late breakfast
Beside the sea, on a day of rain and wind, I perform the opening of The good manners,,,, the part about dance being the first language, mera nam kya hai, what’s my name…

Performance is calling to her, she says, a way to manifest embody all her stories and especially her passion for the environment.
 
She speaks with pride of her warrior passion to keep the seas free of poachers, of the trouble it has caused, of her commitment to conserving the natural environment,
 
Everyone was going one way, she said pointing towards the sea and indicating civilization, things of the modern world,
"and I was going another way."
 
The Samoan spoken  before the missionaries was peremptory, she said, full of commands.
But with the missionaries, it softened.
she speaks the difference.
The old language was soul talk.
Now that’s a title I say, Samoan Soul Talk.
 
Before I left, I asked her for a few words about this place in her life where she is now and she said:
 (the sounds you hear in the background are the wind, the rain and the sea...)


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On our last visit to Samoa in 2019, I remember we visited a tree with thousands of bats hanging upside down.
 
This time, CandyMann tells a story about bats and the tsunami of 2009.

He says there was a special small kind of cave bat and for some reason, before the wave hit, they flew in droves – in thousands - to underwater caves on the north side of the island. Seeking safety. But then the wave hit and not a trace of them has been seen since.

Something about the image of them, the underground caves, the force of water.

Maybe because here and there, I keep hearing stories that build on the tsunami, the scale of the loss of those bats feels operatic almost.
 
January is cyclone season.

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Sunday in Poloa

1/19/2020

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Nick King in Poloa


Poloa and Siapo

Great Gratitude to Nick and Mona King who host me in Poloa in their lovely home.

In the living room, on a red wall, is Nick's siapo artwork  - designs made on bark cloth of the paper mulberry tree
- ancestral artwork


Nick learned from Mary Pritchard, famed siapo maker from Leone, in Amerika Samoa.

He shows me the book she wrote,  a beautiful oral history about her embodying, practicing, teaching this art.

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Nick King - bio and siapo photos


Interview with Nick King

how the art first called to him... (hint: it has to do with food :)

suddenly, a tsunami -( in 2009, just below him in Poloa)
the wave was as tall as a....

fa'a in the likeness of...

Black eyed words of a teacher - remembering Mary Pritchard

That feeling when the spirit of the art fills you, in flamenco, it's called duende,
in Samoan, it's called....(Nick describes it.)


TO REACH NICK DIRECTLY, contact him
via instagram 
@nfksiapo

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poem in poloa

by Shebana Coelho

this poem came one Sunday in Poloa
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O lo'u igoa.... My name...

1/16/2020

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A lovely afternoon today with the students at American Samoa Community College
as it rained and rained outside, we wrote….
inspired by “My Name” from the House on Mango Street by Sandra Cisneros.

– Grateful to Kuki Tuiasosopo, Fine Arts Department Chair who invited me.

-Grateful to the students who wrote straight from their hearts onto the page
….

Here are some excerpts:


There is no Samoan name for Emma.
In German, it means strong.
Emma is an old fashioned name.
I have been told this many times when people ask for my name.
Emma is innocent but has a dark side to it.
People in my family said it was named after the first Mormon prophet’s wife who started the church.
Very few Samoa people I have met have this same name as me.
Emma can be intimidating sometimes.
 
 
My name is May, named after my Dad’s sister.
Who took me in and cared for me
Many ask if I was named after the month or was I born in May?
But no, I wasn’t.
Sounds short but calm in my ears when I hear it.
No difficulties saying my name just like how I’m not a difficult person to communicate with.
 
 
My name is Valovalo
I was named after my biological father.
For years, my biological parents have been divorced.
People usually call me by my middle named, Vincent
When I think about my first name, it's weird…
because I was adopted by my biological mother’s family and till today, I haven’t noticed where my name is from…
 


When you hear my name, it’s either ice cream or a flavor free sweet desert
Vanilla belongs to my great great grandmother but good thing she was never made fun of…
As for me, growing up, my classmates always called me chocolate or caramel.
After high school I joined the military and all my drill sergeants asked if that’s my stripper name.
And I just smiled and said, if it was, I wouldn’t have joined the service. And they laughed.
 

 
Corabelle is a fairytale name. I’ve never met someone who has that same name.
It’s from my auntie’s favorite movies.
There’s no Samoan translation for it.
 
 
I am the only one named Cassandra in my family.
…My mom and Dad told me that the meaning of my name is fierce and strong.
Because I posses that attitude.
When I think of my name, I think of the scent of lavender.
Because it’s my favorite color.
 
 
Lydia – a name given by my father who loves his mother dearly.
A name also taken after my aunt who is as strong as a bull and clever as a fox.
Lydia
named after two excellent women so I am honored to carry Lydia.
because it is mine now.
When I think of that name,
I see the purple color, feel the sun, relaxed on utulei beach
eating umu and filled with joy.
 

In every email that Kuki sends, there is this quote which I second, third, fourth. I mean, in all the ways I can agree with a statement, I agree with this one.
 
“The arts are a major area of human cognition, one of the ways in which we know bout the world and express our knowledge. Much of what is said in the arts cannot be said in another way. To withhold artistic means of understanding is as much a malpractice as to withhold mathematics… Since schools traditionally develop only linguistic and logical/mathematical skills, they are missing an enormous opportunity to develop the whole child.”                                                                                                                          ~Dr. Howard Gardner, Harvard Graduate School of Education

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    in Samoa

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    Shebana Coelho
    from
    Pago Pago
    Amerika Samoa,
    January 2020


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